This month
What is worth your evening in Thailand, and what is not. A drinking room on Sukhumvit 26. A museum that opened this year on Soi 40. Vinyl on Naradhiwas. A corner on Charoen Krung. The hotel concierge list is the other column.
Drink · Book 6pm or 8pm
Sukhumvit 26 · Khlong Toei
Glass door opposite the security kiosk. A drinking course — starter, main, after — savoury, not a rooftop with a view. Walk-ins after the slots. Fourteen seats. If you wanted birthday-cake cocktails, this is the wrong door.
See · Courtyard now
Sukhumvit 40 · BTS Ekkamai
The museum that opened this year. Main galleries are dark until 26 September, when Giving Life arrives with Calder. Until then: the courtyard, Sho Shibuya’s wall, Turrell at sunset. Not another mall gallery.
Eat · Book a sitting
Charoen Krung · Bang Rak
Joe’s room after 80/20. Thai drinking food on the corner — omelette, not a tasting. Three wheels on the glass. Book; the walk-in is a rumour.
Drink · Thu–Sun from six
Naradhiwas · Silom
Vinyl on the wall, drinks named after the people on them. Not a rooftop and not a playlist bar. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Eat · This week
Silom · Bangkok
Seasonal Thai, not a tourist tasting. The kitchen still shops the morning market itself.
See · Now showing
Pathum Wan · BTS National Stadium
The one museum that is actually on the way. Walk it in an hour if you are honest. Dib is the new one; this is the one you can do between trains.
Go · Mornings
Flower market · before seven
The wholesale flower market, not a floating-market coach stop. Go once. Do not buy a garland for the gram.
See · Open
Charoen Krung · Talat Noi
A row of godowns turned into rooms you can actually use: books, coffee, a gallery that changes.
See · Worth the drive
San Kamphaeng · Chiang Mai
The north’s serious contemporary collection. Not a café with paintings. If you are already in Chiang Mai, this is the room. If you are in Bangkok, Dib is closer.
Eat · Book ahead
Charoen Krung · Bangkok
The menu is the market that morning. If you wanted a steakhouse, this is the wrong door.
See · Go early
Kasemsan · BTS National Stadium
The house, not the mall. Silk on the loom is downstairs in the collection if you want to take it home.
Go · Any afternoon
Thonglor · Sukhumvit 55
Thonglor’s yard. Useful if you want to know how the soi actually feels before you book a table you will regret.
See · Check dates
Ploenchit · Bangkok
A serious room for Thai contemporary work. Quiet. No gift shop shouting at you on the way out.
Skip · If you insist
Khlong San · the river
A restored Chinese mansion on the river. The shrine is still used. The rest is shops you can skip. Photograph the river from the boat; do not stay for the souvenirs.
Go · Mornings
Pradit Manutham · east of Ekkamai
Grass, a court if you booked Crystal Sports, air. Further out than Sukhumvit, still Bangkok.
Eat · Evenings
Chinatown · Bangkok
Walk it. Do not take a food-tour flag. Pick one stall and sit down.
Want the evening arranged, not improvised? Book an appointment in the collection.